Where The Wild Wind Sings

Leaving the long stretch of Sidi Kaouki’s endless camel colored coast, is always poignant. It’s a refuge. Unplugged. A village with a few stone houses and a camel or two. A few cheeky donkeys bray, and oblivious chickens squawk and peck. You can sit for breakfast outside on the patio and watch a few herds of goats pass by the open doorway with their 8 year old herder. A few minutes later, a lone Berber woman, covered head-to-toe in mismatched patterns, strolls by with her cow. The wind can be fierce. It can be gentle. You can spend the day feeling it pick up and die down. It mimics one’s slowed-down breath. More subtle feelings have space to arise, so often buried under the harrang of too much thinking. The eyes see things that never registered before. This place has always been like this. It eases the mind.

Time to go. The “blue and white ”Essouira taxi burns up the straight three hour trek back to Marrakech. It passes the one and only indigenous argan forest. It’s spiky branches so free form, abstract and full of tiny yellow nuts, so loved by nibbly goats that they levitate themselves right up onto the highest branches. This stretch of road always reminds me of the first time I came to Morocco with two close friends. We arrived late at night. It was 2 am when we left Marrakech, after a midnight supper of chicken tagine and hearty bread. 

We headed off into the night with a toothless driver in an old beat up blue and white taxi on what seemed like an endless stretch of road. My friends fell asleep and I was left with my own white thoughts about ‘what happens if’. Meanwhile, the stars were immense, shining down with little moonlight on shadows and silhouettes of distant palms, robed figures walking in the dark, vast flat plains with faint light coming from an occasional low earthen dwelling. We passed strips of town, long and narrow buildings with arches; a loggia of mystery.

There was a man rolling a barrel down the road at 3:30 am. We mistakingly hit a dog. At least the driver stopped. The dog was stunned, but not dead. My friends lay dreaming asleep, while I sat dreaming awake. Where am I? I was cold. I couldn’t get the driver to roll up his window, or it was broken. Something in me felt slightly unravelled. Fear of the unknown has that quality.

By the time we reached Essaouira, the town was in a deep sleep. Yet, the nightwatchman from our hotel was there with his cart. We piled our luggage on, said goodbye to our driver, who smiled a toothless grin and we walked through the empty ‘place’, down dusty alleyways with the occasional dead fish, breathing in that familiar, wet, salty sea air. It’s now 4:30 am. The call to prayer comes over the loudspeaker in a loud and crackly “Allah o Akbar!” Glory be to God! I felt the same, happy to have arrived at this far away door.

Inside, all was orderly, white, calm, silent and peaceful. A chest of blue and white dishes greeted us. Roses, red and plentiful, were on all the tables. Our room, open, with a loft, beckoned us. I chose the small, cozy loft. My friends were chatty, and more than likely ready for tea. I, on the other hand was a corpse.

“Welcome to Morocco”, said the doorman. I fell quickly into bed to the sound of birdsong, sweet and melodic. At least birdsong is a universal language, I thought. The breaking light of day did not dissuade me from a potent sleep.

My first adventure to Essaouira was a memorable one. Not without love, discovery, magic,
a falling through the veil to another way of seeing the world. Leaving there was never easy.
Leaving the edge of something potent, a bit wild and untended takes discipline.

Once I saw the lines of separation~ between me, the tree and the earth~dissolve. It was a moment I will never forget. I was not on mind altering substances. It's just that my heart
had cracked open and like a thousand pedaled lotus, it bloomed and I could feel the various chambers that hold shadow, exposed. I was in a taxi going down a country road. I looked to my right and the tree ,the earth and the sky was lit up in outlines of color. It lasted a split second. Mother Africa winked at me.

Then there was the return of all returns that I will never forget. I was headed back to Marrakech yet once again in a blue and white taxi. It was September 11th, 2001. I pass the familiar landscapes, the argan forest, I see a small boy on his donkey high on the horizon. It's hot and there are people walking around in wool from head to toe. The windows are down and the wind is blowing my hair into my face, but I don't care. I'm steeped in this culture, infused like orange blossoms in water. I've hit the resonant note in myself that is  not alone, but in tune with everything. I am the air. The boy riding his donkey. A woman sitting in a taxi.

The cell phone rings. "Allo"? says the driver. He is animated and attentive as he listens, he shouts a bit, then hangs up the phone upset and says," Madame! Madame! Catastrophe in America! Catastrophe in America! Mafia! Mafia!"

Part one.
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India: Shahpura Bagh, Part One.

High over the mustard field tiny warblers jump from plant to plant. It early morning, but not for the jackals and peahens. A warm breakfast of freshly made yogurt from the dairy and poha, a puffed rice colored with turmeric and flavored with a masala blend of spices, mustard seeds, and red capsicum graces the clean white porcelain plate with color and appetizing aroma.

A barefoot priest in a dhoti, jacket and rather elaborate turban comes through the gate on his bike. He brings a piece of incense with him, lights it and says prayers at the doorway and leaves.

Poised for action, a hand holds rose pedals ready to drop on arriving guests. 

We make ourselves at home. 

A sunset drink at the family Fort gives the impression of a time gone by. Villagers come out to greet the great grandson of the Maharaja of Sharpura. Especially the old gatekeeper.

 He was a boy when the old palace was full of life. Now he is a grandfather himself.

 Daikon radish stick straight up. A garden harvest stuck on this villager's head to free her hands for proper sari etiquette.

 Young boys are the same all over the world. Who will they grow up to be? The youngest brother. A banker?

Coy and demure, her eyes, her posture, says it all.

A view not unlike the Serengeti, was a favorite hunting ground for tigers. They were plentiful then.
A noble daughter who shot her one and only tiger when she was a teen, who's  in her 70's now said, "It was a different time, a different story. Now they are outnumbered. " Not proud as the day it happened, her father beaming.

The rooms of the palace still hold mystery and charm. This was the bathing room.

 A balcony of repose.

The gatekeeper served us wine and we drank to the whispers coming from the tower walls.

India: A Simple Recipe for Tomato Chutney

Tomato Chutney

1 cup fresh tomato
1t garlic (peeled and chopped)
3 sprigs of fresh mint
1 red chili, chopped
1 green chili, chopped
a pinch of sugar
salt to season

Mix all ingredients in a food processor, or pound together in a mortar and pestle.
Add salt to taste.

India: Ayesha Manzil's Malabar Coast Cooking.

Ayesha Manzil, an old Heritage mansion, sits on a hill with a close view of the warm Arabian sea. 

It was built by an Englishmen, who was one of the first to set up the East India Trading Office, trading spices from the port of Tellicherry. Pepper, the main sought-after commodity was grown nearby,

as well as cinnamon bark and cardamom. These spices along with coffee were stored in the old Portuguese fort until they were ready to be shipped. In those days, the Malabar coast was the epicenter of the spice route, and no other community makes better use of those spices that the Mopillah, the Muslims of North Kerala. 

C. P. Moosa's grandfather took the house over in the 1800s—Moosa has lived there his entire life and, at 60, it seems nothing has changed. Not the furniture, the fans, nor his way of welcoming guests. He pioneered the "home stay" here in India 17 years ago, now especially popular in the south. "There were no good places to stop and eat between Mysore and Cochin," he says, "so I offered my home."

As a hotelier, Moosa knew the business of taking care of people and what needed to be done. His wife Faiza, an accomplished cook with passion, also liked the idea of offering cooking classes to weary travelers as a window into the local culture. Together they make fine hosts. Their staff is comprised of a handful of local men who do everything from set the table, do the books, the laundry, and serve tea. 

An old white Ambassador was waiting for me at the train station, along with Alan, my escort from the house (Alan Mendoza's forefathers arrived from Portugal 500 years ago he was proud to tell me, and he still considers himself a certified Portuguese with papers). When we arrived at Ayesha Manzil, Mr. Moosa, barefoot and curious, was there to greet me.

"Hello Peggy. I am Moosa. Come." He motioned Alan to take my things up the stairs. "Get freshened up. You'll have dinner, then a good rest, and we'll be off to the market by 8 am."

There's nothing that thrills me more about the hospitality business, rather than chatting with a totally relaxed aristocrat in a lungi [Urdu for "loincloth" or "skirt"]. It makes for a most interesting stay, with me ready to throw off my shoes and street clothes and adorn the same. Lungi's are the native dress for men, and they all wear them, at least at some point in the day. There are simple ones of checks and patterns, or white with a gold trim for more formal. The sari is traditional for women, with the same informal and formal description. Off white with a gold trim, is the signature look for Kerala. It's dignified and pure. In the slow south Indian culture and climate, this sort of dress makes total sense, and if the food wasn't so good, it would be the first reason to be reborn there. 

Mr. Moosa.

Rosewood beds, teak dressers, wooden floors, all in the neighborhood of 100 to 150 years old. My room was proportionately spacious on the second floor. A big box with a high ceiling, a long desk, and two twin four poster beds with antique mosquito netting that fit over the top and corners and hung down below the mattress edge. Diffused light came from the north facing window  in a Dubbusey-like moment, soft on the eyes, falling on the chaise lounge where I loved to lie in a daydream. I could have danced with arms outstretched on the old floor and perhaps no one would have heard me below. Their were no paintings or pictures on the wall. Just practical pieces of furniture and space. I never wanted to leave the room. They had to call me for breakfast...and dinner once, as well. 

But leave I did to get into the kitchen with Faiza. Her long Colonial kitchen was simple, but ample with two burners on a narrow stainless steel bench. She gives cooking classes every day and this was Sunday. It should have been a day of rest. She worked with me anyway, knowing that she would have the afternoon to herself. We made tamarind prawns and tamarind eggplant, both with the same base, and the most delicious okra thiyyal.  "When you cook with Faiza, your fingers do the motions, you put this and that, but really, you talk about life!" says Moosa.  

Indian cooking is not difficult, if you have the ingredients. And like anywhere, it always tastes better where it grows. Getting my hands on the tamarind was a new experience. Soaking it from it's dry form, it's necessary to squeeze the pulp twice to get the most out of it. It's sourness is most pleasant and a necessary flavor in south Indian cooking. I never would have thought to add it to either shrimp or eggplant. But it worked. 

Indian recipes are almost always overwhelming with the number of ingredients. Yet, they are quite happy together and even with the complex flavor, you would never know there are so many. 

CHEMMEEN VARATTIYATHU

Tamarind Prawns

1 1/2 cup of prawns (as fresh as you can find and cleaned)

2 small red onions, chopped into small cubes

1 small tomato

6-10 fresh curry leaves

2 green chilies, sliced

2 cloves of garlic, chopped

1/2 in piece of fresh ginger, chopped fine

1 1/2 T chili powder (this is where the rubber meets the road)

2 t turmeric powder

2 t coriander powder

a small ball of tamarind (the size of a lime)

1/2 cup of coconut oil

1/2 t mustard seeds

1/2 r fenugreek

salt to taste ( at least 1/2 t)

Clean and wash the prawns. Add 1/4 t termeric, 1/4 t chili powder and a few pinches of salt to the prawns. Make a paste and marinate for 10 minutes. 

Heat a Kadai. (Indian wok). Pour 1/4 cup of the oil and bring to a medium heat. Fry the prawns until they start to brown, then set aside. 

Heat a sauce pan, pouring in the remaining oil. When the oil is hot, add the mustard seeds until they pop. Then add the fenugreek. When it crackles, add the

chopped onions, green chilies, ginger, garlic, curry leaves and sliced tomato until soft. Add the remaining chili powder and turmeric and stir for a few seconds.

Pour in tamarind water, a pinch more salt and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the prawns and a pinch more salt. Simmer on a slow fire until the sauce thickens. 

Remove from the fire and let sit. 

* substitute chunks of eggplant that have been fried separately. Use all ingredients (except fenugreek) and follow the same method. 

Dinner for one on a terrace overlooking the dark Arabian sea, the moon is a quarter with a planet above. Auspicious I think. This is a communist state and the moon star and sickle is a statue on the beach. I am the only guest, doted on by a staff of three. Six dishes were put front of me. An appetizer of sardine with a spicy paste grilled on a banana leaf, along with the main meal of aubergine in tamarind, rice with fruits (raisins, grapes and slivered almonds), fried, spiced, okra-flavored yogurt, prawn curry cornmeal stuffing with mussels. 

I ate with my hands. I know how to do that now. (The staff was smiling and cheering me on.) Salma Husein taught me in my first days in Delhi, but like anything it takes practice. 

I used to think the most common denominator in the world was fire. Now I think it's eating with one's hands. Everyone does it. High society, kings, fishermen. All castes. Once you get the hang of it, it's like...okay...why wouldn't you want to? It taste so good and feels good too. There is a way and it makes eating with a knife and fork obsolete. I'm even convinced that it's relaxing and therefore aids digestion. But then again, it depends on what you are eating. Indian food lends itself to the pinching of really tender meat pieces in a gravy, as well as mixing everything with all of your fingers very carefully, then popping it into your mouth. It's quite an achievement, and comes easy after you stop thinking about it. Totally natural.

"What is this?" said the cook. (A spoon.) "God gave you hands!" Here, you start off feeding babies with your hands. I think now that it is a good trick. There is something transmitted to the child from the mother about the taste and love of food.

Why was I so enthralled with this meal? It was not so different than the other lessons I've had. I was attentively savoring and celebrating the flavors of this marvelous cuisine. What could have made this so good?? Then I had a shaktiput experience...I had cooked it myself! Yes. at the loving hands of Faiza Moosa. The first meal I had cooked in over a month. Whether true or not. I did notice something.

The pineapple trifle with ginger tea went down rather well afterwards and so did the moon. 

The Fish Market of Tellicherry.

I have visited fish markets all over the world, in many different cultures, and love the vibrancy, the smell of salt and sea, the earnest looks of fishermen presenting their hard work for chefs and villagers each day. But for some reason, this fish market in Tellicherry, India made me sad.

I'm starting to look at fishing as something that will disappear, a way of life that is actually dying off. What will scores of fishing villages do? I am not opposed to fishing obviously—I am a cook and I love all fresh foods. But my knowledge of what's happening to the oceans is starting to make these sort of markets hard to swallow.

Having a soft spot also shows the terrible beauty of a freshly caught fish draping off the side of the counter with still brilliant eyes. A fresh death.

Fish have been a necessary protein for the people of Kerala. Their state is long and coastal. We can still watch the fishermen in their ancient boats with their nets that hug the coast. There is history here, of traders being blown off course from the monsoon winds, who ended up finding some of our most valued spice treasures.

Where will the modern world take them?

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Take a peak at some photos from Tellicherry's vegetable market on the PMCA facebook page. 

Alumni Story: Elena's Seventh Program

You could say that Elena Portoles wins the prize for PMCA's 'Most Frequent Traveler.'  Since 1997, Elena has been on almost every single one of Peggy's programs, tasting and exploring her way across Italy, Spain, Morocco, and just this last month—India. 

Here, we interview Elena in the midst of her seventh program with Peggy, India: Tasting Royal Rajasthan. Moments later, Peggy surprised her with the ultimate thank you gift for being such a loyal guest: an invitation to be her guest on the upcoming 20th Anniversary Program in June! Elena was stunned and replied, "Terrific! Elba is the only trip I haven't been on."

During this anniversary year, we invite all of you to send in your stories, impressions, photos, and memories from the road. Photos, videos, emails—we want it all! Your stories keep us inspired to develop new programs, and to bring new groups to these destinations each year. 

PMCA: This is your seventh trip with PMCA. What keeps drawing you back to traveling with Peggy? And can you tell us where and when you started?

Elena: I'm fortunate to be able to travel. Back at home, I love to cook and to entertain, and traveling gives me inspiration for new recipes to make for friends. The best part of the trip is coming home and re-creating the many dishes. My neighbors wait in anticipation for my dinners.

I started with La Cucina al Focolare: Cooking by the Fireside, Peggy's first program in Tuscany, in 1997. I was in Europe on business and decided to add a week's vacation. The ad in my favorite cooking magazine caught my eye—cooking in Tuscany. I was in! Liguria was my second trip with Peggy, and Sicily was my third. Morocco was fourth and Thailand was fifth. Spain was sixth, and now India is seventh! I always go on the first ones, the maiden voyage as it were. 

PMCA: What do you like about the PMCA approach? 

Elena: I like that we visit local towns and villages, where we are people to people. Non-traditional traveling interests me. I love to visit the markets, meet the cheese makers, the bakers, and see how things are made, which makes it a real culinary experience. 

PMCA: You've told us that you have no problem traveling alone, so why do you choose to travel with PMCA?

Elena: With PMCA, I always meet nice people with common interests, in a comfortable environment. It's relaxing and interesting at the same time. I also make my own time during the programs. I set my alarm, get up early and get out. I don't want to miss a thing.


PMCA: Do you have a favorite trip? 

Elena: No! I love them all. I belong to a gourmet club and I cook everything I learn on the trips when I get back home. When my friends ask me for a recipe I tell them, "That's a $6000 recipe!" [Laughs.]

PMCA: Peggy has a particular style of leading a program. What do you like about it?

Elena: Peggy is so caring, knowledgeable and interactive. There's a million tour companies out there, but I don't need to be hopping around. I know Peggy and her style by now. Her trips aren't sightseeing tours, per se. We focus on the food while taking in the culture at the same time. That works for me.

PMCA: What about this seventh trip? Are you enjoying it? During your trip in Morocco, someone asked you if you were going to join Peggy in India and you shook your head, "Oh no. I've been to India and don't ever need to go back." What changed your mind?

Elena: Oh, I'm loving it! I was here for work the last time and it was less than pretty. When I read the itinerary and looked up the hotels, I thought this trip looked wonderful and it has been. Lovely group and we have been so well taken care of. It's beautiful. It has been worth every penny!

PMCA: Anything else you would like to add?

Elena: Can't wait for number eight!

Culinary India: A Cooking Lesson with Salma Husain

Today I had a cooking class with Salma Husain, a Persian scholar, noted food historian, and the author of The Emperor's Table, The Art of Mughal Cuisine. 

In Salma's home outside of Delhi, I watched as she and her cook of 28 years showed me how to temper spices in oil, make poori, chapati, and roti, potato curry, chicken torma and pea and corn pulao. A full menu!

                                    

In between dishes, as the aromas filled the room, Salma stood by the stove and told colorful stories and antidotes about the ingredients and the history of each dish. As she pinched spices with her fingers, she said, 'There's a wonderful story about a cook I once knew in the south of India. She came into the kitchen and saw a spoon next to the spices. She said, What is this?! God has given hands to you! Use them!"

A few notes and lessons from Alma, that I jotted down in her kitchen. I'm sure that when I turn back to these pages of my journal in months to come, a fragrant smell of cardomom and fresh ginger will waft out of the pages. 

Cardamon powder gives a touch of the exotic. Green is for seasoning, black for tempering.

Different lentils are tempered with different spices. 

Red lentils: cumin and onion

Yellow lentils: garlic and red chili

Whole mung: ginger slices, onion, and broken whole chili

Mung lentil: clove

Fish and vegetables are mostly cooked in mustard oil.

Onion paste: Fry onions until brown and crispy. Blend.

Garlic and ginger pastes are just that; garlic blended whole and ginger blended whole.

"Food is never served on the table without being tasted. It can always be repaired."

"Food without history is nothing."